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Exactly How to Pull Off Bright Makeup IRL

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Exactly How to Pull Off Bright Makeup IRL

From glow-stick yellow to a subtle whisper of flamingo pink

BY AMBER KALLOR

BEAUTY  -  OCTOBER 03

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Nina Ricci; Photos: Sonny Vandevelde

From a whisper of flamingo pink across lips (Rick Owens), to a glossy eye reminiscent of Rio de Janeiro’s tropical landscape (Nina Ricci), to neon yellow wings inspired by “acid birds-of-paradise”(Haider Ackermann), color came in all forms for Spring 2017. Here, how to pull off vivid hues at every intensity:

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Rick Owens; Photo: firstVIEW

Bright:

Behind the scenes at Rick Owens, makeup artist Sammy Mourabit pushed MAC Lipstick in Flamingo (a vivid coral) into models' pouts with his fingertip. "It’s bright but I use it as a stain so it brings back the lip in a peachy, rosy tone,” he explained of the subtle wash of color juxtaposed against catwalkers’ “alabaster” complexions. “Lipstick is the ultimate tool for women—if you have no time, you just put it on and go.”

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Nina Ricci; Photo: Sonny Vandevelde

Brighter:

A trio of pop-y hues inspired by the steamy beaches of Brazil appeared on the runway at Nina Ricci thanks to face painter Diane Kendal, who reached for creamy colors from Kryolan, Ben Nye (Lumiere Creme Color in Cosmic Blue, Cosmic Violet, and Royal Purple), and Make Up For Ever in turquoise, tangerine, and electric lavender. Buffered by squared-off brows, mascara at the roots, and a band of brown or black liner along the waterline, the typically garish brights looked soft yet undeniably sultry. Kendal’s secret weapon for turning down the volume: A thin layer of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream layered over top. “It softens the color and makes it aesthetically easier to wear,” she explained. “By putting a balm on, the light reflects so it actually breaks it up a little bit.” 

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Haider Ackermann; Photo: firstVIEW

Brightest:

“Haider [Ackermann] was texting me: ‘You promise it’s going to be neon,” said makeup artist Lynsey Alexander backstage at the designer’s show. To achieve the razor-sharp, highlighter-yellow wings etched onto the outer corners of models’ eyes, the pro sketched the shape and laid down a base with MAC Eye Kohl in Fascinating, a creamy white pencil. Then, she packed Rock-It Yellow Pigment over the milky stencil with a MAC 212 Brush. “Yellow is a really hard color to make strong because it’s really unstable,” explained the face painter. “If you mix it with anything wet, it goes very dull—this is the only formula that kept the yellow neon.” As for that punky flick offset by a slash of MAC Chromaline in Pure White at the inner corners, Alexander swears you don’t need a steady hand to pull it off: “The secret is in the clean up,” she said. “You get it on and then you shave it with a cotton bud and remover. It’s not about killing yourself to get it perfect the first time.”

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Penis Tats Popped Up in Paris at Vivienne Westwood

A big, phallic beauty statement

BY AMBER KALLOR

BEAUTY  -  OCTOBER 02

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Photo: firstVIEW

Can a T-Shirt be Feminist?

The "We Should All Be Feminists" top at Dior did not fix fashion, but at least it’s sparked a conversation

BY ARIA DARCELLA

STYLE  -  OCTOBER 02

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Photo: firstVIEW