Black liner ruled backstage during New York and London fashion weeks: It was wrapped around eyes (Rag & Bone and Ashley Williams), coated with grease (Baja East), and extended into a feminist wing inspired by Gloria Steinem (Prabal Gurung). In Milan, however, things took a turn for the brighter. Uninhibited brushstrokes of color appeared at Pucci (applied with a small mascara fan brush) and Max Mara (Pecheux employed a curved sculpting brush from MAC), while canary-yellow pigment coated eyes at Sportmax. Rainbow stripes of tangerine and scarlet stretched across lids at Salvatore Ferragamo, whereas a traffic-cone orange gloss (MAC Studio Eye Gloss in Next Up Neon) was subtly smeared over eyes at Missoni. Lower lashes saw some action at Arthur Arbesser via abbreviated bands of emerald, and cobalt was the color du jour at Giorgio Armani (available in February as part of the house’s SS17 palette). “It’s Burning Man meets Bollywood,” explained Linda Cantello of the electric azure paired with shiny, “plastic” skin at Armani. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux rimmed eyes with blue and burgundy at No. 21 to stunning effect, and abstract blocks of color in lemon, turquoise, and sapphire were visible from the very last row at Ports 1961. Sarah Snyder even took the concept to the streets at Dolce & Gabbana’s candlelit dinner on Monte Napoleone, matching her fuchsia feline flick to her dress. Perhaps the easiest way to get in on the action, however, is via a quick slick of vivid lipstick. Face painter Terry Barber reached for the entire spectrum of MAC Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour at Marco de Vincenzo. “It’s all based on the idea of what a woman naturally does when she’s wearing clothing, she changes her lipstick,” he said. “It can’t get more basic than that—it’s very chic to find a fabulous lipstick and wear it solo.” We couldn't agree more.
See all the bold beauty moves from Milan in the slideshow above.
Backstage at Pucci; Photo: Sonny Vandevelde