Welcome to “Show Notes,” in which FU’s critics offer an unfiltered peek at their musings and notebooks. For an in-depth analysis of the collections, don't miss our forthcoming "Report."
•“I think over the last few seasons, we’ve really started evolving to a more feminine aesthetic, and I think this season is kind of a continuation of that,” said designer Jason Wu.
•The palette is grapefruit pink and pale green, the latter of which is seen in the geometric chevron print featured on a sexy, asymmetrical top and a little A-line dress. It’s also the primary hue on a deliciously fetching cocoon coat. Lots of monochrome looks in black, white, and beige.
•Fringe is the main motif here. A standout look is the first one: a black suit jacket that cuts off just above the knees, covered in sleek, silky fringe. Divine.
•“It was kind of my way of softening up the sharp tailoring in that it was a little bit more airy,” he said.
•Relaxed suiting was also key here. Roomy trousers and long vests—all still honing the sharp minimalism that’s part of the German house’s codes.
•“There’s a certain cleanliness and a certain discipline that comes with the Boss DNA,” Wu said. “I think [the BOSS customer] wants things that are chic, sophisticated, but also have a certain idea of minimalism.”
•Wu used chiffon, silk, and wool crepe, and bonded leather. "I love the idea of playing with something that looks like a print, but actually has a lot of different techniques attached to it."
•In terms of accessories, Boss’ signature bespoke bag is presented in a new canvas fabrication. There are also black patent leather men’s loafers, and a chunky espadrille sandal that is about as Resort as it gets.
•Wu's woman this season? “Well, I think she’s definitely unfussy,” he said, grinning.