On the heels his critically acclaimed Spring 2017 outing—his first solo showing after Maria Grazia Chiuri’s move to Dior—Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli announced that he plans to show his forthcoming Pre-Fall collection for the house in New York, rather than Paris, on January 11.
“I am thinking of New York for June, too,” he told WWD. “New York seems to me the ideal location for the pre-collections, it’s international and has such charm. Pre-collections are becoming super important, where style is fundamental.”
The news isn't totally surprising, as this isn't the first time Valentino has shown in New York. In 2014, Chiuri and Piccioli held "Sala Bianca 945," an all-white haute couture show, to celebrate the opening of its Fifth Avenue flagship store. It’s also not uncommon for designers to hold pre-collection presentations in destinations other than the cities they show in for Fall and Spring, thus turning the industry into somewhat of a traveling circus during the months between ready-to-wear shows.
Nevertheless, Piccioli’s decision is a smart one. After all, it’s a well-known fact that buyers and retailers spend something between 60 and 80 percent of their budget on pre-collections, which are often more commercial and live on the floor longer. So, why not shake things up a bit? With this, and Raf Simons’ recent announcement that he, too, will move his eponymous label to the Big Apple, next year is shaping up to be an interesting one for fashion.