After announcing nearly a year ago that it would be adopting a see-now, buy-now model, Proenza Schouler has decided to part ways with the Big Apple and move its show to Paris. What’s more, the brand, helmed by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, will consolidate its ready-to-wear and pre-collections into one single collection, which will be shown twice annually in January and July to align with the couture shows. The first unified collection—Spring 2018—will be shown this July. The brand is still set to show its Fall 2017 collection in New York next month.
This isn’t the first time Proenza Schouler has shaken up the traditional model. The New York-based brand intentionally withheld images of its Pre-Fall 2016 collection until it hit stores in the summer to quell consumer fatigue. It’s also not the first time the brand has shown in Paris. Last June, the designers announced that they would be showing Resort 2017 at a salon-style presentation on July 4, the week of couture.
The decision to unify and show during couture is quickly becoming the norm. Vetements has been showing RTW during Couture for two seasons now, and Rodarte last week announced a similar strategy. It’s worth noting, however, that the Mulleavy sisters’ decision made sense for a different reason, given that their offerings are often already couture-like.
Proenza Schouler noted that a large percentage of its sales come directly from its pre-collections, which is pretty standard, given that buyers and retailers typically spend between 60 and 80 percent of their budget on these inter-season outings. As a result, a smaller balance goes toward runway delivery, “which, in truth, is the heart and soul of the Proenza Schouler brand,” read a statement. The shift in strategy will ensure its runway collection—which includes ready-to-wear and accessories—will have a longer retail lifespan. Additionally, the brand is about to launch its much-hyped-about fragrance next year, and “a more pronounced international presence is a key initiative.”
At this point, expect anything.