How to Drape Your Face With Color Like a Kenzo Girl

80s blush is back

Thanks to the frantic pace of the digital age, the average person has the attention span of a goldfish. (No, seriously. This is a fact supported by an actual study.) Seeing as the fashion sphere changes its mind even faster, we decided to provide you with a condensed report from backstage this season. As much as we’d like to pen novels in the name of lipstick and hairspray, we get it—you’re busy. Here, the beauty version of CliffsNotes (all facts, no fluff) that you can easily skim in eight seconds…because science says that’s all the time you have.

SHOW: Kenzo

CITY: Paris

KEY PLAYERS: Makeup artist Lynsey Alexander, Hairstylist Anthony Turner, Manicurist Naomi Yasuda

THE LOOK: “Disco glamour” injected with fierce, 80s flair. “It’s a nighttime look,” said Turner. “She’s out on the town in Paris.”

INSPO: Antonio Lopez, Pat Cleveland, and Kenzo Takada himself.

BEAUTY MVPs: Flame, a shade from Diane Kendal’s forthcoming MAC palette (out early 2017), MAC 188 Small Duo Fibre Face Brush, MAC Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour in Fashion Legacy, Bumble and bumble Bb. Gel, Bumble and bumble Thickening Hairspray, Inglot Cosmetics Nail Enamel in 953, and Inglot Cosmetics Face and Body Sparkles in 55

TOP TIPS: Want to drape your blush like an 80s supermodels (a technique perfected by makeup artist Way Bandy) and take the cosmetic concept into the modern era? Start light and work your way up. First things first, begin with black mascara and make sure it’s waterproof. “If it runs into the red, it’s a nightmare,” said Alexander. While you wait for it to set, apply MAC Strobe Cream and a sheer veil of light-coverage foundation—allowing freckles to shine through. “If you use a heavy base with this [blush] it will look retro,” added the pro. Then, apply the red cream from the outer corner of your eye to the top of your cheekbone with a 188 brush—blowing out the shape as you go along. “The secret is having two 188 brushes: one to apply color and one clean brush to blend,” said Alexander. “You have to build it up in layers. If you use the same brush you add more and more product, [the shape] gets bigger and bigger and you lose the finesse. You have to apply blend, apply blend.” Finally, fill in lips with MAC Lip Pencil in Ruby Woo followed by Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour in Fashion Legacy and loads of clear Lipglass for “playful” finish.

Turner coated strands from roots to mid-lengths with a tube of Bumble and bumble Bb. Gel before devising a deep side part and slicking hair back into a pony. The tail was drenched with Bumble and bumble Thickening Hairspray, braided, secured with a band and looped up underneath the base of the pony. Another elastic was used to hold the “Avedon-esque” shape in place. Hairspray and Bumble and bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil tamed any flyaways and pumped up the shine so that it looked like street lamps were reflecting off models’ heads in the City of Light (an idea Humberto Leon put forth). “She’s very elegant and a little bit bourgeois, so I wouldn’t expect a regular braid to be good enough for her,” said Turner of the Kenzo woman.

Playing off the metallic heels in the collection, Yasuda created a whopping ten nail looks for hands and feet (two for fingers and eight for toes). In addition to bedazzled tips, the polish pro painted nails with black polish, let it set for a few seconds, and right before it completely dried (when it’s still a little “sticky,” Yasuda explained), she dabbed finely milled silver glitter over top with an eyeshadow sponge. Clear top coat was used to seal the sparkly effect.  

WORDS FROM THE WISE: By placing color or shine high on your face and wrapping it around the eye, “it acts as both a highlight and contour at the same time,” explained Alexander. Who doesn’t a love a two-for-one beauty special? 

TREND TALLY: The 80s are back with a vengeance. Dramatic draping was spotted at Adam Selman, Fenty x Puma, and Chanel.

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