Thanks to the frantic pace of the digital age, the average person has the attention span of a goldfish. (No, seriously. This is a fact supported by an actual study.) Seeing as the fashion sphere changes its mind even faster, we decided to provide you with a condensed report from backstage this season. As much as we’d like to pen novels in the name of lipstick and hairspray, we get it—you’re busy. Here, the beauty version of CliffsNotes (all facts, no fluff) that you can easily skim in eight seconds…because science says that’s all the time you have.
SHOW: Brandon Maxwell
CITY: New York
KEY PLAYERS: Makeup artist Tom Pecheux, Hairstylist James Pecis, Manicurist Deborah Lippmann
THE LOOK: “Super glamorous” and “extreme luxury,” noted Pecis.
INSPO: “There was talk of J.Lo, but I’m not sure if that was serious or not,” said Pecis. Regardless, the major hair and makeup were made for a woman who bathes in La Mer.
BEAUTY MVPs: MAC Kohl Power Eye Pencil in Feline, MAC Eye Shadow in Carbon, MAC Pigment in Platinum, Copper Sparkle, Naval Blue, Fuchsia, Violet, and Emerald Green, Oribe Maximista Thickening Spray, Oribe Swept Up Volume Powder Spray (available in April), Deborah Lippmann Nail Color in Raspberry Jam
TOP TIPS: Pecheux created smoky, winged eyes that were pointy but “not sharp” with a black kohl liner—pulling the shape out toward the temples with an onyx shadow. Then, the pro tapped a metallic pigment in the center of the lid with a damp brush. “I like the fact that the girls look tough and then suddenly when they blink you have that flavor of color bringing joy, happiness, and playfulness,” he added.
To achieve the loud of buoyant, touchable curls seen on models like Riley Montana and Jourdan Dunn, Pecis pulled out the tiniest of curling irons. “It’s smaller than my pinky,” said the pro of his go-to hot tool. “It takes a long time to do.” The time spent in the chair backstage, however, was worth it—Montana even fluffed her glorious mane mid-walk. “These girls have curly hair, so let’s embrace that and go with it and turn it up a few notches,” said the pro. For catwalkers without curls, Pecis misted a volumizing spray from roots to ends, blow-drying hair away from the face. Then, he set the front with a few more spritzes and wrapped sections around a one-inch curling iron to form waves. For even more body, he used a few puffs of Oribe’s forthcoming plumping and texturizing powder. “It should look like an explosion of hair out the back,” he explained.
WORDS FROM THE WISE: “I’d say this is one of the more diverse shows that you’re going to see as far as girls and ethnicities and that’s for a reason—it’s very important to [Brandon],” said Pecis, who added that the models should look and feel like themselves instead of conforming to a single hairstyle or standard of beauty.
TREND TALLY: Winged eyes were spotted at Prabal Gurung, Victoria Beckham, and Dion Lee. Models’ individual kinks and quirks were also embraced at shows like 3.1 Phillip Lim and Public School.