Thanks to the frantic pace of the digital age, the average person has the attention span of a goldfish. (No, seriously. This is a fact supported by an actual study.) Seeing as the fashion sphere changes its mind even faster, we decided to provide you with a condensed report from backstage this season. As much as we’d like to pen novels in the name of lipstick and hairspray, we get it—you’re busy. Here, the beauty version of CliffsNotes (all facts, no fluff) that you can easily skim in eight seconds…because science says that’s all the time you have.
SHOW: Derek Lam
CITY: New York
KEY PLAYERS: Makeup artist Tom Pecheux, Hairstylist Akki Shirakawa, Manicurist Jin Soon Choi
THE LOOK: Sleek, minimal, and sophisticated—apart from a pop of icy color on eyes.
INSPO: The collection’s bold hues including red, gold, and black led to a subdued hair and makeup look. Even Pecheux’s sheer, periwinkle lids were “very subtle,” the pro said. “We don’t want the makeup to take over.”
BEAUTY MVPs: Maybelline New York Expert Wear Eye Shadow in Purple Daze, Vanilla, NY Silver, and Teal the Deal; Hairstory Undressed spray; L’Oréal Paris Elnett Satin Hairspray Extra Strong Hold; Jin Soon Nail Polish in Muse
TOP TIPS: To get the “sleek” and “silky” chignon, Shirakawa sprayed strands with Hairstory Undressed for a soft but “not too beach-y” texture, then pulled the length back into a pony. Next, he combed through the crown while applying hairspray and twisted the tail up into a “not too neat, not too messy” chignon. He polished off the look and tamed any flyaways by misting another light layer of hairspray and gliding a powder brush across the surface.
Manicures were also minimal. “When you use sheer colors, it comes back to nail care,” Choi said. “You need to have a really clean cuticle because it’s all about a pretty, healthy look.” If you’re running short on time, apply cuticle oil after the polish dries. “It’s going to look really new and clean and fresh,” Choi noted.
WORDS FROM THE WISE: “If you want to do a good eyeshadow, if you want to make it very soft and smooth with no patches, the only right way to do it is to powder [the lid] very well,” Pecheux said. Prime eyes with a translucent powder or pale eye shadow, as a wet or greasy surface leads to opaque color that can’t be blended. “I wanted a transparent look,” Pecheux said. “A flat color from the lashes to the eyebrow is more fashion, more arty.”
TREND TALLY: Pat McGrath was feeling blue in a big way at Anna Sui, while slicked back hair was also seen at Sachin & Babi and Oscar de la Renta.