Peter Philips Shoots for the Stars at Dior Couture

Plus, how to create Couture-level curls using tissues

Thanks to the frantic pace of the digital age, the average person has the attention span of a goldfish. (No, seriously. This is a fact supported by an actual study.) Seeing as the fashion sphere changes its mind even faster, we decided to provide you with a condensed report from backstage this season. As much as we’d like to pen novels in the name of lipstick and hairspray, we get it—you’re busy. Here, the beauty version of CliffsNotes (all facts, no fluff) that you can easily skim in eight seconds…because science says that’s all the time you have.

SHOW: Dior Spring 2017 Couture

CITY: Paris

KEY PLAYERS: Makeup Artist Peter Philips, Hairstylist Guido Palau

THE LOOK: “It’s very elf-like,” said Philips of the smattering of shimmery stars sprinkled below models’ eyes or positioned at the inner corners, while Palau said there was an “enchantment” and a “romance” to the fluffy clouds of curls he created behind the scenes.

INSPO: Ruth Bell (the face of Dior’s latest campaign) and her “tomboy” aesthetic served as a jumping off point, but it was Christian Dior’s own superstitions that inspired the cosmetic constellations seen scattered across models’ complexions. “Christian Dior was a superstitious man and he had a keychain that weighed a ton—it was full of trinkets and lucky charms. We took one of those charms, the lucky star, and transposed it to makeup,” explained Philips. As for the exquisite masks crafted by milliner Stephen Jones, the late designer’s love of “dressing up and going to bal masqué” prompted this game of haute “hide and seek” on the labyrinth-like runway. Asked what creation Philips himself will wear to the house’s masked ball this evening in Paris: “I have that Mickey Mouse [mask] that was shot by Irving Penn, but I have to see how I feel!”

BEAUTY MVPs: Dior Diorskin Forever Perfect Cushion, Diorblush in Rose Cherie, Diorskin Nude Air Luminizer in 001, Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow in Metaphore, Dior Addict Lacquer Stick in Tease (available in March), Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray, and Redken Windblown 05

TOP TIPS: Who needs concealer to camouflage dark circles when you can brighten up with glitter? For more of a “punk approach,” Philips painted star-shaped sequins with black nail polish and adhered them to the inner corners of eyes, while other catwalkers received the same treatment in a slightly softer silver or gold hue. For a more “dreamy” effect, he positioned the metallic embellishments in the center of the lower lash lines. And for the ultimate “fantasy,” the sides of the face were sprinkled with “stardust” (i.e., itty bitty star confetti).

WORDS FROM THE WISE: “Every girl is being tissue set, which is a much lighter, softer idea of setting,” said Palau of his heat-free technique. “When you use a curling iron it feels much more aggressive, but when you use tissue it’s much more random and it brushes out much softer.” To get the look, the mane master applied Redken Guts to damp hair, rough dried, used tissue to set, then “brushed and brushed” until curls “drop out into a wave.” A light misting of Redken Windblown at the roots added texture. “[A tissue set is a] nice technique to use because doesn’t have to be done perfectly and everyone has some tissues at home!” added Palau.

TREND TALLY: A gentle flush and romantic waves were also spotted on the runway a few hours later at Giambattista Valli.

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