Thanks to the frantic pace of the digital age, the average person has the attention span of a goldfish. (No, seriously. This is a fact supported by an actual study.) Seeing as the fashion sphere changes its mind even faster, we decided to provide you with a condensed report from backstage this season. As much as we’d like to pen novels in the name of lipstick and hairspray, we get it—you’re busy. Here, the beauty version of CliffsNotes (all facts, no fluff) that you can easily skim in eight seconds…because science says that’s all the time you have.
SHOW: Thom Browne
CITY: New York
KEY PLAYERS: Makeup artist Aaron de Mey, Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman, Manicurist Julie Kandalec
THE LOOK: Wool in 3-D
INSPO: The herringbone in the collection took the hair and makeup above and beyond. “We decided to play around with some braids and we looked at home furnishing ties that you’d see on antique French furniture and we looked at equestrian horse hairstyles for dressage, and this is where we ended up,” Souleiman said. “We have this braided haberdashery, equestrian hairstyle.”
BEAUTY MVPs: MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation, white acrylic paint, Wella Dynamic Fix Crafting Spray, wool from the Thom Browne collection
TOP TIPS: Recreating the dramatic look will take more than just makeup. Souleiman crafted a neat pony with a low side part, using lots of hairspray and gel. “It’s really about creating a 90s, minimal hairstyle underneath,” the pro said. “It’s the perfect base for a look like this because if the hair isn’t perfect underneath, [the material] won’t sit on top.” A small braid at the top of the head acted as an anchor for the fabric, which was woven under and flipped back over the plait. The fabric was secured in a braid that trailed down to the floor.
Arts and crafts were also on display in the makeup department. “Rather than using pigments, we’re using fabric to replicate makeup,” de Mey explained. “So the face is three dimensional.” Applying black, grey, or herringbone wool (attached with eyelash glue), the pro created a squared-off shape to the brow. The color on each model corresponded to their look in the collection. Then, each girl received a herringbone lip secured with Topstick tape. (Consider the concept a very creative way to ward off chapped lips during the next winter storm.) Models with pale complexion got the “vampire” treatment via a mix of MAC’s gel-based Studio Sculpt Foundation and white acrylic paint brushed over the face for a porcelain finish.
Polish was also replaced with wool. Kandalec wrapped press-on tips with black, white, grey, cobalt, red, and yellow fabric from the collection.
WORDS FROM THE WISE: “Everyone needs a hairspray,” Souleiman said, as he explained the importance of the clean, minimal hairstyle under the material added to the models’ manes. “For dirty hair, it’s amazing. Spray it on the roots, brush it through, oil’s gone. You don’t need a dry shampoo—that’s a myth.”
TREND TALLY: Unconventional beauty was also served up at Gypsy Sport, while headpieces were spotted at Adam Selman.