In addition to six-figure feats of fashionable construction (and a rather nasty gastro flu), there were hairstyles as sculptural as ornate accessories (Jean Paul Gaultier), flashy fuchsia lips that rivaled any amount of pricey plumage (Valentino), and liquid “lashes” that could easily stand in for a Stephen Jones mask at a masquerade ball (Dior). Even better: You can recreate these looks on any budget—no offshore bank account required. Here, our favorite beauty moments from Couture.
Whether you want to brighten up under a black veil or reinject some color into winter-whipped skin, consider slicking on something pink. At Chanel, makeup artist Tom Pecheux played off a cluster of colorful couture blooms by reaching for various shades of rose. He lent lids and cheeks a gentle flush, but punctuated models’ pouts with a more vivid gloss. Kaia Gerber stole the show at Valentino in head-to-toe fuchsia, sporting Pat McGrath’s latest MatteTrance Lipstick in Faux Pas to match her fabulous feathers. If you’re feeling daring, take another lesson from Valentino and swap basic black liner for a shocking pink wing.
Bring Back Blush
In terms of cheek color, there was something for everyone at Couture. For those who like a lot (and we’re talking a lot), look no further than Alexandre Vauthier where the era of excess inspired ’80s-style cheekbones draped with MAC Blush in Azalea, Rhubarb, and Devil by face painter Lisa Butler. Pink pigment was also wrapped around orbital bones at Alexis Mabille, while cheeks received a faint flush at both Ronald van der Kemp and Proenza Schouler.
Blue was undoubtedly the warmest color in Paris, as everyone from Pat McGrath at Givenchy to Debbie Finnegan at Guo Pei appeared to be feeling it. Inspired by Pierre Cardin (the master designer for whom Jean Paul Gaultier worked when he was only 18-years-old) and his graphic silhouettes, Odile Gilbert gave a handful of girls cobalt and turquoise bobs, topping them off with towering “spirals.” Want to take a subtler approach to azure? Try lining just your lower lashes and waterline with electric blue like makeup pro Terry Barber did at Iris van Herpen.
Cheekbones were contoured with galactic glitter at Maison Margiela, lids were laden with sparkles at Viktor & Rolf, and even foreheads were swathed with the twinkling stuff at Guo Pei. “It’s more sensual than sexy,” said Tom Pecheux of the smudged grey shadow topped with the tiniest bit of purple glitter at Azzaro. For those not into full-throttle flash, try a metallic slash at the outer corner of each eye as seen at Zuhair Murad, or jazz up a clear manicure with mirror-like particles (a move made at Elie Saab). If you don’t want to find glitter in your bathroom for months after applying it, slip on a pre-made sparkling swim cap—a look seen on the runway at both Maison Margiela and Elie Saab. Perhaps the easiest option: Repurpose a pair of gem-encrusted earrings and let them dangle from the end of two braids like models at Alexis Mabille.
In addition to some impressive, intellectual ink at Dior, there were “lashes” made with a masquerade ball in mind. Taking visual cues from Surrealist films such as The Red Shoes, Peter Philips used the new Diorshow On Stage Liner in Matte Black to draw “rough, heavy-handed” fringe. The key: Keep it painterly—not perfect. “It shouldn’t be too clean, otherwise it looks too much like Ice Capades makeup, which is great, but not for this show!” he laughed. At Armani Privé, makeup pro Linda Cantello affixed fake lashes to the outer corners of models’ eyes on top and bottom. Inspired by opals and the aurora borealis, she swathed lids with three shades of Giorgio Armani Beauty Eye Tint (Jade Reflection, Blue Reflection, and Rose Reflection) for an ethereal, watercolor effect.
Be a Birkin Beauty
“I’m calling this look bare-faced Birkin,” explained Val Garland backstage at Giambattista Valli. “[Giambattista] wants his girl to look fresh and real—like she’s just thrown on the couture.” Brows were brushed up, lips were paled down using MAC Lipstick in Saint Germain, and cheekbones were glazed with MAC Mixing Medium Shine for an “athletic sheen.” Mane master Anthony Turner had “heavenly, angelic creatures” top of mind when he styled “unspoiled and untouched” strands using only water. “We’re just wafting the hair around and enjoying the little flyaways,” he said of the halo of hair created with a Cruxe comb.
From classic feline flicks done in unexpected colors at Valentino to electric underliner at Iris van Herpen, eyes were especially graphic this season. Stéphane Marais celebrated Jean Paul Gaultier’s homage to his former master, Pierre Cardin (a designer known for his “futuristic” creations), with negative space wings that were simple yet “architectural.” Tom Pecheux put on the glitz by gilding the area just above the crease with gold to evoke Parisian elegance in the 1920s. And Willow Smith sat front row at Dior rocking a single, white slash below each eye.
Match Your Mini
A pregnant Coco Rocha and her daughter, Ioni Conran, were twin it to win it this season at Jean Paul Gaultier. Wearing toddler couture that matched her supermodel mommy, the two-year-old proved that she definitely inherited the posing gene. Off the runway, Rocha’s mini has already started raiding her closet, as she was seen sporting a Ba&sh sweater of her mother’s that “shrunk in the wash.” Who needs a playground when you have Paris?