Peruse Prada’s collections in the ’90s and you’ll find multiple examples of those chunky highlights that defined the decade. Naomi Campbell. Kate Moss. Meghan Douglas. Helena Christensen. Yep, all the era’s supermodels had streaks of honeyed blonde that would be considered a bad dye job by today’s standards. But that was exactly the point at Prada’s 2019 Resort show in New York City today, explained hairstylist Guido Palau. “Mrs. Prada was talking about the time back in the ’90s when the girls had a lot of personality and brought their own style to fashion,” he said of house muses and perpetual cool girls like Chloë Sevigny. “She liked the idea of randomly placed color that clashes with the hair. It’s not meant to look natural—it’s a fashion statement.” Stripes of platinum, brown, and espresso extensions were interspersed through catwalkers’ strands and then blasted with Redken Wax Blast and Forceful 23 hairspray for texture and grit.
Makeup pro Pat McGrath also kept grunge top of mind but added her own glamorous spin. “It’s almost as if a young girl had done the most impeccable eye makeup and then just washed it off and these are the pieces of makeup that are left,” she explained. Lids were swathed with taupe shades from her Platinum Bronze Eyeshadow Palette and lashes were loaded with “tons of mascara.”
It was the manicures, however, that turned out to be the bright spot backstage. Playing off the vivid prints and colors in the collection, Jin Soon Choi hand-painted vertical stripes in cobalt, tangerine, yellow, red, and forest green down beige nails based with her namesake lacquer in Sandbar. The finishing touch: a Prada logo cleverly applied to nails using waterslide decal paper from an art supply store. It was the perfect nod to ’90s logomania for today’s modern woman who might not be bold enough to bring back those Gerri Halliwell-style highlights.