Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear
March 4, 2016
Raf Simons may have left Dior, but his ghost was present at today’s Fall 2016 show. The show was held in a white, mirrored, minimal space at the Louvre, and clean, crisp, elegant ensembles dominated the runway. The design team didn’t stray far from the aesthetic Simons developed during his brief but impactful tenure at Dior, however the clothes lacked the energy and surprise that Simons’ shows always delivered. That’s not to say they weren’t lovely. The outerwear here stood out. A ladylike cream coat with wide lapels was classic Dior, while an orange iteration with deep pockets that wrapped around the hips felt more like Simons’ style. Elsewhere, floral embroideries and embellishments were inspired by a sketch drawn by Christian Dior himself; silhouettes were modern plays on the iconic Bar suit; and flat, pointy, exotic boots seemed very now. Little flourishes, like ruffled lapels or peplums, double handbags, and draped scarf detailing added dimension, but on the whole, the lineup wasn’t terribly directional. It was missing vision and a message. No doubt, when a creative director is named, he or she will bring new life to the storied house. In the meantime, this lineup produced by Dior’s expert team will appeal to the brand’s current clients.