Fall 2017 Couture
July 3, 2017
This season at Schiaparelli, Bertrand Guyon was thinking of the women with which the founding designer surrounded herself—artists, artists’ lovers, creative women who marched to their own drummers and defied the conventions of the times. Women who were not unlike Elsa Schiaparelli herself.
Dubbed “Shocking Society,” the show aimed to propose a new femininity.
What we saw was something that we’re used to watching walk down the ready-to-wear runways, but not so often in couture—a high-fashion approach to utilitarian sportswear.
This seemed to be the focus in the first part of the show, which opened with silk faille cargo pants paired with a plunging white crepe top, the arms of which were embellished with trompe l’oeil bracelets. A black silk faille jumpsuit echoed the utilitarianism of the first look, as did a white leather jumpsuit embellished with that iconic red lobster, made here out of beads and glass tubes.
As is the house’s tradition, trompe l’oeil details ran throughout. Faux necklaces or bow belts were beaded onto sheer gowns, and crystal trompe l’oeil watches appeared on mesh opera gloves. Equally surreal were the crystal accessories—a cell phone or a lock, for instance—trapped inside a sheer vinyl jacket.
Other signature motifs were utilized, like faces on jackets, a beaded sun on a little white shift, and the Schiaparelli heart, which appeared on the bodice of a gown, and on the breast of a silk crepe dress.
Elsewhere, exquisitely constructed gowns, often boasting boned bodices, were romantic and frothy, drifting through the show space like a daydream.
This was not an evolution, per se. Rather, Guyon continued to develop his take on the house codes. The outing was youthful, romantic, and particularly airy for a Fall offering. But hey, it’s generally pretty warm in L.A., and you can bet Guyon’s red carpet clients will eat his latest confections right up.