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Paris

Ann Demeulemeester

Fall 2017 Menswear

Paris

Ann Demeulemeester

Fall 2017 Menswear

Paris

BY William Buckley

January 20, 2017

• Ann Demeulemeester’s menswear has always been romantic. Since Sebastien Meunier took over from Demeulemeester as she quietly stepped aside in 2014, the brand essence has remained the same. Meunier’s commitment to the brand eclipses his own influence, and since his first collection, Fall 2015, he has stayed true to the codes of the house.

• With gothic romantic collections this season from other brands like Alexander McQueen, Antonio Marras, and Wooyoungmi, Demeulemeester was in its element. Both McQueen and Wooyoungmi referenced Oscar Wilde as an influence, and that personification of gothic pomp could have easily been the nucleus on Meunier’s mood board this season. 

• Sheer shirts with ruffled fronts and fluted necks rippled and shimmered under distortedly proportioned cropped waistcoats, like if a vest and a bolero had a baby. Lace cuffs and ribbons tied in bows around wrists and necks, voluminous pleated pants, furs and italic script spelling the word “l’avenir,” French for “the future.” 

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