Fall 2017 Menswear
January 6, 2017
Craig Green, The Fashion Awards’ Menswear Designer of the Year, and he who needs no introduction, took us on a sumptuous, textured trip with his Fall 2017 outing.
If this collection of anonymous, mystical travelers doesn’t snap you out of your 2016 rigor mortis, nothing will.
The first looks were beautiful enough, a take on his usual fare of martial arts and fisherman silhouettes with wide trousers and bucket hats. Those came out in an oceanic blue, and a grey-and-white flecked bouclé that would be instructive even to Karl Lagerfeld.
Then came the diamond-patterned grey velvet look with strong, square shoulders, skirts, and strap details. Yes, same-ish cuts as seasons past, but thought out fabrics. You can see the handwork a mile away. That look was so good, he repeated it in a deep forest green later in the show.
Those looks underscored his technical genius in cutting and shows why he is not just picking up critical acclaim but new stockists, too (Bergdorf Goodman and Mr. Porter have just placed orders).
If it would have stopped there, it still would have probably been the best show of the week, but Green pulled out a rabbit and delivered pure prose next.
In a move that would make texture-focused designers like Dries van Noten would, Green introduced some exquisite patterns and textiles that felt baroque and regal.
These could have been the patterns of Samarkand, Kazakhstan, Old England, or the Vikings–oversized crosses and hearts in a dreamy blend of earthy colors.
It’s like he was binge-watching the Young Pope, The Vikings, The Crown, and Game of Thrones all at once—with a little bit of magic carpet thrown in.
It was a blend of colors and patterns so solidly composed that felt like a security blanket for these troubling times. Wrap yourself in this. Feel safe.
All that was missing was a scythe, crown, and throne. Even a diagonal sash leant a regal, papal feel.
Then he retreated back to a uniform color palette, this time in a deep lilac.
He added a new silhouette to his arsenal…the deep sea diver (inspired by his awe of the ocean).
Those came out with sturdy helmet hats and threadbare rope that could come in handy when clawing your way back to safety.
The message seemed to be: Use this merch as safety armor and comfort for troubling times ahead.
The references to the past seemed a prescient warning: Ignore the lessons of history (even recent events) at your own peril.
It was an emotional masterpiece of a show, set against serene hypnotic music that soothed the soul.
Craig Green did the impossible–he upped even his own game. Who knows where his rare talent will lead him to next. Bets are on.