Fall 2017 Menswear
January 21, 2017
• Streetwear brands are a dime a dozen these days, but Heron Preston stands out. The New York-based designer, who gained notoriety last September when he launched a collaboration with the Department of Sanitation during NYFW, debuted his first men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collection last night in Paris.
• “I consider Paris the ultimate fashion stage, and I wanted to be a part of that story for my first collection. It felt very special to have it here,” said the designer of his choice to present across the pond. It’s worth noting that he also studied at Parsons’ Paris campus, so the city has a personal significance.
• It’s an interesting season to debut a streetwear collection in Paris, what with Louis Vuitton collaborating with Supreme, and everyone and their mother taking cues from the craze.
• “I think it’s different industries coming together to achieve true breakthrough,” said Preston of luxury’s obsession with street. “We are noticing that luxury wants to be street all of a sudden, but I’m also noticing that street wants to be luxury. My community is always pushing for like premium. So, I feel like there’s his crazy loop that’s starting to close between both worlds. Louis Vuitton and Supreme is the ultimate example of what’s happening right now, and what the future is going to look like.”
• It’s that highly informed way of thinking, rather than strictly his aesthetic, that separates Preston from his peers. He considers fashion and clothing in all its facets, and aims to improve it.
• “What I wanted to achieve with the Department of Sanitation project was fashion design and the sanitation department coming together and creating together, which is a very unpredictable approach in the industry. I feel like that’s the future, especially for things that we really care about. Like, clothes are cool, but what is the deeper message here?”
• There were a number of “deeper messages” in this debut, like the fact that just because something is pegged “streetwear” doesn’t mean it can’t also be made in Italy by expert craftsmen from the finest fabrics, as many of Preston’s Fall 2017 garments were.
• This season, the designer also made use of his name, Heron, as a recurring motif, from a painterly print to the orange lining on jackets, which resemble the “flash of color seen when the birds open their mouths to gulp fish.”
• Additionally, there was a social component here, with a baseball cap embroidered with the image of Dr. Martin Luther King, the made-to-last clothes, which are a response to the fact that the fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters in the world behind Big Oil, and a new edition of the designer’s collaboration with the DSNY.
• What’s more is that this collection debuted the same evening as Donald Trump’s inauguration. It was fairly ironic, given the diverse mix of enthusiastic individuals that came out to support Preston, as well as the collection’s quest for eco-consciousness.
• All in all, this was a strong first outing for Preston, and we look forward to seeing what he does next.
Fall 2017 Menswear