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Milan

Prada

Fall 2017 Menswear

Milan

BY William Buckley

January 15, 2017

• Walking into the Prada show space this season, my first impression was an overwhelming sense of mid-century. Considering the clean simplicity of the space—a curved wooden partition tracing back and forth around the room with rows of benches and the occasional bed—Finn Juhl or Charles and Ray Eames could easily have designed the set had they been alive today.

• The collection, though, was much more of the ’60s and ’70s. Khaki corduroy pants were slightly flared and paired with a colorful patchy knitted sweater, an Etsy-esque chunky necklace and a furry orange belt brought us back to the Brady Bunch—any of the Brady boys, or the Brady girls, for that matter, could’ve rocked the socks out of that sweater, and so would I. 

• There was a definite unisex element to the collection. Pam Grier could have worn each and every look, both women’s and men’s, serving it all with an effortless sassy chic, and similarly, perhaps save the skirts, Starsky and Hutch could have as well. There was a lot of leather and suede in jackets with wide lapels and also in pants or car coats and corduroy accessorized with newsboy caps and leather briefcases, all in a warm, autumnal palette of brown, tan, burnt orange, and burgundy.

• It’s interesting, because while both the show space and the looks were intended to intimate a sense of simplicity, and while there was an undeniable normcore about the collection, there was an implicit undercurrent. Characters like Foxy Brown and Starsky and Hutch are some of the most poignantly lasting references we associate with that ’70s style, representative of blaxploitation or fighting for justice. There is militancy as a force for good inherent in our memory of the fashion from that era, and I imagine that was not lost on Miuccia.

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