Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
March 7, 2017
• While Thom Browne’s Moncler Gamme Bleu collection is conceptual but rooted quite firmly in performance with the potential to blaze trails on the slopes of Mont Blanc, Giambattista Valli’s Gamme Rouge is more Coco Chanel at aprés ski in Aspen—more Parisian chic than skis on peaks.
• Valli’s often inspired by Coco Chanel and the Parisian chic of that era—his signature head-to-toe black worn with a string of pearls is evidence enough, but he mentions Coco often. “The Moncler Gamme Rouge girl this season has these pieces, very Coco, very French, like Moncler,” he explained. “Moncler is something that you really wear to travel, so she starts to travel—she goes to Canada, during an Indian Summer, and all these pieces speak to the landscape, the colors of the sunset, or the sunrise, the creams, the whites from the mountains, and the floras, like girls camping around this landscape.”
• I’m not sure girls camping have ever worn outfits as deeply chic as the ones on show today, and if they have, no offense, but it wasn’t in Canada. We’re talking bouclé jacket-and-skirt sets, white-and-black with red, white, and blue trim, and pink mink collars. To give credit where credit is due, the jacket was worn over a technical waterproof blouse, so there was a performance aspect, but if I was going to spend money on a bouclé Moncler, I’d want that waterproof layer on top.
• That did come eventually, by way of floral waterproof jackets worn over fine lace dresses, or performance jackets with luxury lamb’s wool collars. Overall, though, this collection was more Parisian than Alpine, and will appeal to a broader audience than those seasonal snow bunnies.
• There was also a more restrained use of the Moncler red, white, and blue. Yes, it was present, but more in details and trims than entire looks. “I cannot do red, white, and blue all the time,” said Valli. “It is part of the brand, and part of the French heritage, but for me, this is more like a wardrobe here, less like a uniform.”
• Also of note? Valli was inspired by Canada, not just due to its beautiful landscapes, but also for sociopolitical reasons. “I love the idea of the Canadian landscape and I thought of a girl version of Brokeback Mountain, but mostly I love the idea of Canada and what it represents today,” he said. “There is this spirit of freedom, of welcoming young generations from all over the world, and that is a spirit that I really embrace.”