Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
June 10, 2017
• For Fall (Opening Ceremony is on the see-now, buy-now bandwagon with this collection in stores as of Saturday), Humberto Leon and Carol Kim drew from a meandering road trip through the desert of the Southwest they had taken almost two decades ago. “It was a trip we took in 1999 through New Mexico,” Leon said after the show. “It really was about embracing the Southwest.” It’s the dust-caked version of the American pastoral, dotted with cacti, desolate rest stops, and then some.
• “We were inspired by Georgia O’Keefe, but her wardrobe more so [than her work] and this artist named Ken Price,” Leon continued. “We wanted to fuse these two worlds together that are total opposites.” The designers borrowed much of their palette from Price’s work, most evident in shimmery velvets done most successfully in jungle green and sunset pink. The Southwest skyscape proved fertile ground, lending itself to a series of striated, sunset-hued knits. Picnic plaid done in billowy balloon sleeves and ruched chiffon skirting also nodded to the West, as did many of the accessories. For instance, there were spurred cowboy boots (done in the very cowgirl fabrication of hot pink crushed velvet on occasion) and carved silver belt buckles, worn both belted and around the neck. A distorted Navajo blanket was printed on velour tracksuits and a school of scorpions scurried up the sides of a kimono.
• The event was billed as a “show and experience,” and OC vets knew what that meant. Leon and Kim appreciate the theatrical, with show formats varying from plays to political performances. Two models (later revealed to be top stuntwomen) who had bumped into one another during the runway show crossed paths again during the finale walk, one tripping the other. A full kung fu battle ensued. Though the show was called a “modern western,” no guns were drawn, but the choreographed outing concluded with the two rival models joining forces to banish Leon and Kim. It was cute.
• The “experience” closed with a performance from RZA, who ended his set with a clear directive to partygoers Ubering over to the afterparty at the Standard Hotel. “Let’s get drunk and stupid.”