Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
February 26, 2017
• Fulvio Rigoni is figuring our what his Salvatore Ferragamo is all about.
• For Fall, he offered up a collection that was a once dreamy, surreal, and a touch retro. Fitting, considering his inspiration was a Serge Lutens TV campaign image from 1978.
• The palette here was born from a pastel haze—lavender, a muted turquoise, neutrals, sea foam, and the like.
• It was also clear that this was aimed at a sophisticated customer with her finger on the pulse—perhaps in an effort to bring the same cool factor to RTW that Paul Andrew is bringing to accessories.
• Animal prints, like enlarged leopard spots, felt playful, and a slouchy black puffer coat was particularly on point.
• Sculptural neck details on coats were interesting and eye-catching, but could perhaps be a hard sell.
• On the whole, this collection felt somewhat at odds with itself. Classic and cool—what with the stretch pants, the prints, the conceptual proportions—seemed to be working against rather than with each other.
• Rigoni, who was appointed as Ferragamo creative director in October, is still gaining his footing at the house, but there were some good ideas here that will surely help his vision for the brand come to life.