Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
February 15, 2017
• This year marks Zac Posen’s 15th anniversary in business, and in order to celebrate, the designer went back to his roots.
• Instead of hosting one of his traditional runway romps, Posen staged a photo exhibition in his first-ever studio down on Laight Street, which featured some of his favorite models and longtime supporters (like Carolyn Murphy, Jourdan Dunn, Lindsey Wixson, and Hilary Rhoda) in his decadent Fall 2017 wares.
• But perhaps the best part was that the intimate shoot, which took place just days ahead of his NYFW event, was held in his parents’ soho loft—the same loft from which Posen launched his line 15 years ago.
• “I love the theater of fashion, but I think that when it’s so fast and it’s about repetition it’s harder to create a certain kind of emotion and present the collection that the customer and the stores actually end up having,” Posen explained of his choice to forgo a runway show. Via the striking photographs, as well as intimate editor appointments, Posen was able to showcase his 1940s-inspired designs in a manner that truly did them justice. And I have to say, as an editor that runs around from show to show for months on end, it was an absolute joy to view Posen’s craft-focused creations in this manner. (I know, I know, fashion problems. But still.)
• Posen is somewhat of a unicorn in New York in that he has a full-on atelier right here in the city. He’s always been one to embrace old-school couture techniques and translate them for the modern woman, and this lineup was no exception. Standout elements included a sculptural dress and gown, done in hues of rouge, blush, and burgundy, that were made entirely of woven ribbon; 3-D rose embellishments that literally blossomed off of necklines; and pockets hidden in the most elegant of evening gowns. Why don’t more evening gowns have pockets?
• When Posen said he loved the theater of fashion, that was perhaps the understatement of the century. And there was plenty of drama here, in the form of voluminous gowns, his signature mermaid silhouettes, and razor-sharp pleating that added texture to the bodice of one black gown. But some of the strongest bits here were daywear options—not that they, too, weren’t fantastically considered and constructed. A black treated cotton jacket that incorporated foam for a futuristic feel was especially covetable.
• Also of note? Posen cleverly embraced see-now, buy-now in a way that doesn’t compromise his brand’s slow luxury roots—the Italian-made shoes paired with Posen’s Fall looks will be available almost immediately on the designer’s Website.
• “We are learning as the world changes,” Posen said. Indeed, the designer is adapting. But as this collection proves, his brand is built upon a strong foundation that can stand the test of time and an ever-changing market. That’s worth toasting to.
Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear