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Paris

Beautiful People

Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear

Paris

Beautiful People

Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear

Paris

BY William Buckley

March 6, 2018

Despite designer Hidenori Kumakiri’s Fall 2018 collection’s title, “Masculine/Feminine,” there was nothing unisex about it. The brand, Beautiful People, was born from his background in menswear tailoring at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, but while more and more brands produce collections that eschew any fixed gender demographic, and while yes, Kumakiri’s collection had its foundation in classic menswear, it was wholly created for women. Take the collection’s title. The “/” would typically denote an either/or type alternative, but in this case it was actually transformative—something that was masculine in its beginnings was transformed by the diagonal slash of the bias cut into something exclusively feminine. Double-breasted overcoats and jackets clung around the body as if they were a size or two too small, but then splayed outwards into fitted but perfect proportions. His tiny shrunken Perfecto biker jacket that made the brand into a fashion household name in his native Japan also made an appearance, paired with a long, pleated maxi skirt printed with a sea of golden coins. While this was a collection comprising reinterpreted classics, and while that was done with a certain subtlety, the result was a master class in Japanese precision. 

Louis Vuitton

Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear

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