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Paris

Carven

Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear

Paris

BY Roxanne Robinson

March 1, 2018

For his second show for Carven, creative director Serge Ruffieux chose a popular international school, Camille Sée, that boasts many foreign language course studies. In this sense, it was fitting for Ruffieux, who is still exploring the different tongues spoken chez Carven. Backstage after the show, he told reporters that he was experimenting with different combinations of fabrics–for instance, a wool miniskirt worn over a sheer tulle underskirt. He was also experimenting with outerwear, showing many styles in heavy twill and wool that bore an inside-out and distressed vibe. He also rethought a waxed cotton field coat by making the bottom half in a buffalo plaid. While the sporting life was a theme carried over from Spring, this time the Carven gal was also ready to get serious about her school work while wearing fuzzy sweaters and leggings in cable knits, a classic men’s tailored shirt with a beautiful lace embroidered hem, and a variety of school uniform-inspired skirts and wool plaid pants. A dress that had a ’30s-feel (though the designer was quite adamant he did not share this view) with signature drawstrings that created a ruched effect on garments was riffed upon and rethought throughout the show in many variations with contrast patterned sleeves. These dresses smacked of Ruffieux’s previous training at places such as Dior. They should also prove to be a nice item at retail. The lace shirts, along with the furry moccasins and engraved metal bags, are what the designer calls “conversation pieces.” It’s important to keep the discussion going for sure, but a new language for the contemporary house is still being set.

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