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Paris

Kolor

Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear

Paris

BY Roxanne Robinson

March 5, 2018

Tokyo-based Kolor designer Junichi Abe hails from the exclusive Japanese club known as “hybrid experts,” having worked for both Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe. And his wife happens to be Chitose Abe of Sacai. So the mixing and mashing in the garments he creates is done as only the precise Japanese can do. This season was no exception for Abe, who took his Kolor girl in a more playful direction. “I wanted to look at the immature stage of puberty when you become a teenager,” said Abe. In his hands, this meant an English school girl-meets-middle-America suburban teen. An English tweed patchwork overcoat stood out, as did a stadium jacket and leather moto combo. His Brit favored an oversized overcoat with fur placket, and for the mall chick, a ’90s denim jacket inset with a sweater-knit back and sleeves. “Weekend” was splashed across cozy knits which, in some cases, came with embellished crystal epaulets. A riff on a classic nylon tracksuit jacket with fur, quilting, nylon, tweed, and ribbed sweater knits among others displayed the ingenuity, patience, and vision Abe possesses in a most subtle and quiet manner.

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