Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
March 1, 2018
When you design for a heritage house like Paco Rabanne, it’s hard not to be inspired by its history—and that was exactly the starting point for Julien Dossena’s Fall 2018 collection. He was particularly moved by a vintage photo of Paco Rabanne—the man—working away, and backstage after the show, he marveled at the fact that Rabanne created his own metal and mesh textiles, calling him “an artist and a craftsman at the same time.” The same could be said of Dossena, who this season focused on assemblage and sent dresses and separates made of plastic paillettes and metal discs or flowers connected by little metal rings, down the runway. As models walked, their painstakingly crafted wares danced and jingled, making their own music with every step. But it wasn’t all “unwearable dresses,” as Rabanne called the metal designs in his 1966 couture collection. Dossena offered relaxed—and very wearable—luxury via a stunning camel trench, baggy light blue denim trousers paired with an oversized navy blazer, plenty of body-skimming but easeful knitwear, and—wait for it—pool slides that echoed the metal and sequin makeup of his more fantastical garments. It’s worth noting that the designer injected a certain nonchalance into his metal looks as well through the styling, layering them over sporty knit dresses or making some pieces, like a crochet-style metal dress, with room to spare. The aforementioned style had slightly flared sleeves that covered the model’s thumbs, and she strode down the runway like it was no big thang. To wear something like that and appear comfortable? Now that’s luxurious.