• A
  • B
  • C
  • D
  • E
  • F
  • G
  • H
  • I
  • J
  • K
  • L
  • M
  • N
  • O
  • P
  • Q
  • R
  • S
  • T
  • U
  • V
  • W
  • X
  • Y
  • Z
  • #
  • Latest
  • A-Z Alphabetical
Icon/Close Created with Sketch.
  • Icon/Search Black Created with Sketch.
  • Designers
  • Season



Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear


BY Katharine K. Zarrella

March 5, 2018

Back in January, at her Menswear and Pre-Fall show, Sacai’s Chitose Abe sent a strong political message, printing the New York Times’ slogan, “Truth: It’s more important than ever,” on T-shirts and hoodies. That show was powerful and timely, but for Fall 2018, Abe wanted to focus on her work, and nod to her 20 years of designing her own line. “This time, there really wasn’t any political message,” the Japanese designer said backstage through a translator. “It was really about expressing my feelings through my work, and really putting a lot of emphasis on the exploration of hybridization. This collection was really about constructivism.” In regal hues like burgundy, cobalt, and raspberry, the show comprised what looked like heavily layered looks, but were in fact hybrid garments. For instance, show-opener Kaia Gerber donned a pair of collegiate-inspired striped tights with matching full-length gloves, a tartan skirt, and a coat that was part double-breasted blazer (gilded buttons and all), part puffer. Sweaters were merged with trenches and quilted jackets, ruffled tops were fused with waffle knits, and a denim topper was attached to a black tux jacket. Long belts that trailed behind models as they walked referenced skateboarders’ shoelaces, shoes were mismatched, and single, organic hoop earrings marked a collaboration with Charlotte Chesnais. Another key element here was a Native American-inspired pattern that appeared on everything from trousers and fringed skirts to jackets and scarf-like dresses. When asked about cultural appropriation, a topic that’s looming large over the fashion industry at the moment, Abe stressed that this was not from any particular tribe, and that she has just been drawn the the graphicism of such patterns throughout the last two decades. It felt a respectful homage to Native American imagery without appropriating images with specific religious or cultural connotations. And it seemed to work well with Abe’s overall theme—the merging of multiple worlds. This collection may not have had any intentional political message, but it did project one of unity, and right now, that’s precisely what we should practice and preach. 

The page could not be loaded!