Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
March 1, 2018
When it comes to construction, Y/Project’s Glenn Martins is kind of a wizard. It’s almost impossible to discern exactly what you’re looking at when one of his multi-layered, de- and re-constructed ensembles marches by during a show, but even at a glance, one thing is clear: It’s pretty effing fabulous. For Fall, Martens, who won last year’s coveted ANDAM Prize, continued to fuse old-world regality with irreverent nods to youth culture, and he pushed his experiments in construction to the next level. “This season was really about merging two bodies into one, and you can wear [the pieces] in different ways,” the designer explained backstage. “[In the past], we’ve attached extra legs or extra sleeves, but now it’s really like a Siamese twin, so it’s a bit like you don’t know where it starts and where it ends.” There were velvet and jacquard jumpsuits with twisted fronts, a black bubble cape that looked like something out of The Hunger Games, jeans with tiers of cuffs, seams, and waistbands, and a trench with so many appendages, all tucked and draped in an artful fashion, it would suit a deeply chic caterpillar. Elsewhere, lining worked its way out of coats to become a celebrated part of the garment, and, as in seasons past, a number of trousers were fitted with wire seams to create a surreal ripple effect. Martens stressed that while this collection was a “little bit more sleek,” than anything he’s done previously, what with its refinement and luxe fabrics (leather, faux fur, silk, satin, fringe embellishments, wool plaid, and the like), it still caters to “all the categories of women we love. There’s a sexy vibe, there’s a sophisticated vibe, there’s a dressy vibe, there’s a diva vibe—all the women were there.” Indeed, the Y/Project woman is a dynamic one—and also a fearless one who doesn’t take herself too seriously. For instance, those thigh-high Uggs we saw from the designer during menswear were back, this time with high heels. They were paired with everything from a camel wool skirt lined in pink satin to a buttery olive leather jacket to a sheer, knotted tulle kimono-cum-toga. Sure, the ugly shoe thing has reached fever fashion pitch—those Balenciaga crocs sold out before they even hit stores, and Jeremy Scott just showed thigh-high Moon Boots—but still, it takes courage to wear Uggs. And it takes a pretty talented designer to make them look as cool as Martens did on his Fall runway.