December 14, 2016
Oscar de la Renta’s Pre-Fall 2017 outing—the last collection designed by the in-house team before Monse’s Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia make their debut in February—was inspired by Alta Moda, a Mario Testino exhibition that the late Mr. de la Renta brought to New York in 2013.
Testino’s photographs celebrated traditional Peruvian dress, so, as you can imagine, this lineup had some serious Peruvian flare.
But it wasn’t overdone—these looks were more of an homage to Peru’s elaborate traditional garb, and explored how such garments could be modernized.
Case in point: The opening look, which featured a beautifully embroidered navy skirt and a burgundy top with flared lace sleeves.
The team continued to nod to Peru via embroideries and embellishments, wide sleeves, full skirts, and sumptuous textures. Jacquards abounded, as did boleros.
In many cases, though, the quieter looks were the strongest. For instance, a red knit skirt-and-top ensemble was woven to resemble fringe, and was very flattering. A subdued ivory shirt dress with a tiered skirt and pin tuck bodice was another standout.
This being Oscar de la Renta and all, there were plenty of evening options, the most striking being a black lace gown paired with a matching cropped jacket. It was at once sensual and refined.
The lineup was well-rounded, and spoke to a younger consumer (note the choice to show each look with sweet, flat slides rather than heels) while still keeping the traditional ODLR client in mind. Indeed, a solid effort.