June 5, 2017
• Gabriela Hearst based her Resort 2018 collection around the concept of having luxury on the inside. “A friend of mine gave me a raffia bag, and I put my crocodile Nina bag in it,” Hearst explained to me during an appointment in her West Chelsea studio. “I like the understated idea of hidden luxury,” she continued. “And I think the most beautiful thing about humans is always what’s on the inside.”
• A lovely sentiment—and one that translated beautifully to the clothes. For instance, some feminine denim pieces were lined with cashmere; the under-pleats of a flattering silk wool trench were made from silk chiffon; and a breezy, long-sleeved white dress had subtle boning in the bodice that lent it just enough structure.
• But these clothes were just as luxurious on the outside as they were on the inside. Aloe-treated linen—an eco-friendly material—was a focus here, used for pleat-front pants with a paper bag waist and a shapely, off-the-shoulder peach dress that caressed the body and was accented with a belt.
• Suiting stood out, with two styles coming in a cheerful plaid of blues and pinks.
• Speaking of which, Hearst made an effort to experiment with more color than she has in seasons past. Salmon, red, blush, burgundy, and multiple shades of blue were all in the mix. “I was increasing color for obvious reasons,” Hearst said. “I wanted something that was uplifting.”
• Also uplifting were the two vintage illustrations Hearst used as prints on cotton poplin and silk dresses, as well as on swimwear. The designer described them as “psychedelic,” but they had an organic quality, too, that worked well with the relaxed vibe of the collection.
• The lineup offered a vibrant array of the sumptuous, tailored looks for which Hearst has quickly become known. From cashmere jumpsuits to coats that were nipped and tucked in all the right places, there was refinement to these garments, but they still embodied the everyday ease that Hearst’s woman craves.
• The accessories—like wooden-soled platforms and pointed-toe slides with big buckles—were also strong, and the designer introduced a new backpack into the mix, thus expanding not just her thriving handbag range, but the Gabriela Hearst vocabulary, too.