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London

Mary Katrantzou

Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear

London

Mary Katrantzou

Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear

London

BY Katharine K. Zarrella

September 18, 2016

•Mary Katrantzou looked to her native Greece for inspiration this season. 

•The designer’s forte has always been taking unlikely prints and turning them into stunning, oft sculptural and tactile fashions that boarder on art. 

•Surely this was the intention for Spring, and her swirling check patterns inspired by ’60s art and futurism were mesmerizing. Sometimes, they were shown as prints on separates or turtlenecks, over which slip dresses with contrasting patterns were worn. Other times, they were interpreted as perspex embellishments that resembled mosaics. 

•When it came to the Grecian prints, however, they had a tendency to feel cartoonish. I almost wish they had been abstracted in some way, or pushed beyond the literal. Disney’s Hercules popped into my mind as her models glided through the mirror-filled show space. 

•Some sporty suiting options, however, which were splashed with vivid colors and those graphic prints, were sign that Katranztou is further upping her daywear game, and considering the full wardrobe of her client. 

•The silhouettes here were gorgeous, offering various plays on the hourglass shape accented with peplums and structure. But the prints sometimes distracted from their elegance.

•Katrantzou’s Resort 2017 lineup, which she chose not to release to the public in advance of its release for sale, incorporated some of these ideas, but with a softer hand. That collection seemed one of her most well-rounded offerings to date. One wishes we had seen a bit more of the fluid, easy, wearable, but still eye-popping elements from that collection here. 

•That being said, it looks like Katrantzou had a good bit of fun designing her Spring outing. And those Paco Rabanne-esque perspex dresses worn over turtlenecks are not only right on trend, but they’re going to make some fashion-forward party girl very happy.

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