Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
October 5, 2016
Miuccia Prada’s Spring 2017 Miu Miu collection may have appeared to be a lighthearted outing, what with it’s cheerful florals, retro hues, playful pool slides, and polka dot terry shawls. And in a sense, it was. But there was a deeper message here that Prada wanted to convey.
“It’s a celebration of summer and its pleasures,” the designer said post-show. “And the scary idea of can we have it again? Can we have the beautiful sea and the beautiful beach again?” she continued.
The collection was a nostalgic one. Models wore flower-embellished bathing caps that recalled what you might find in one of Esther Williams’ 1950s synchronized swimming performances. The splashy prints and palette had a 1960s or ‘70s feel, bathing suits were high-waisted or ruched, and there was a general sense of joyful ease that harkened back to the era of La Dolce Vita. Punchy fur coats, meanwhile, looked like a 1950s housewife’s bathrobe—in the best, most luxurious way possible, of course.
•In addition to those playful, candy-colored pool flats, there were shoes with sculptural platforms that had seashells and the like carved into them. They vaguely reminded me of the blue plastic skirt John Galliano sent down Maison Margiela’s ocean-themed runway. Great minds…
•Little bloomers were endearing, and sweet suits, printed day dresses, and slick, bright overcoats will fit right in to the Miu Miu girl’s wardrobe.
•But back to that nostalgia—this lineup recalled a simpler time, before we were aware that the world was being marred by manmade pollution, before reality T.V. stars and Twitter villains. There was something hopeful here, but something sorrowful, too.