Spring 2018 Menswear
June 10, 2017
• It is very apropos that Matthew Miller’s Spring 2018 show was held in a church. Given the recent worldwide events, a little praying won’t go amiss.
• Credit to the Miller team for finding perhaps London’s most historically interesting and goose bump-inducing 16th century church to show in—St. Sepulchre’s in Holborn.
• It was the perfect location for Miller’s characteristically dark and moody collection. The anarchy-themed lineup was very dramatic and extremely theatrical, but in a pointed way.
• Models—men and ladies alike—had huge lips spray painted black and red, as if bloodied and bruised from the recent world events. That was, as Miller described, all about the alternative culture. “It’s like graffiti spray paint. I just wanted a sensation of someone taking a can of spray paint and blasting it over the lips.”
• In keeping with all things goth and anarchic, it was a mostly black collection, yet with some very interesting details.
• The first was the vertical belt situation on the models’ backs, complete with buckles and carabiners. “I wanted to give a place for the raincoat to rest when you don’t need it,” Miller explained. “So if it’s chucking with rain one minute then sunny the next, or if you are biking around and don’t want to wear the raincoat, this is a new hook and belt system to hang it from.” Clever that.
• The sneakers, a collaboration with Filling Pieces, were also a talking point. Pure white sneakers with a black MM graphic that looked suspiciously like the McDonald’s logo, but not quite. “The McDonald’s golden arches logo is very ‘pop culture,’” said Miller. “This is the opposite. The MM stands for Matthew Miller and is meant to symbolize the counter point to pop culture, which is anarchy.”
• On the female models, black tulle (reminiscent of Black Swan) in prom-like gowns was menacing.
• The only color came in soft pastel scarves, worn like sashes, in elegant Japanese silks, a collaboration with Design Lab Japan. Those provided surprisingly delicate touches to an otherwise aggressive show.
• With the background of the church, the stirring gospel music, and the designs showcasing a counter culture that is being re-animated by the minute due to the worldwide political situation, Miller hit the current sense of unease and discomfort bang on the head.