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New York

Theory

Spring 2018 Menswear

New York

Theory

Spring 2018 Menswear

New York

BY William Buckley

August 3, 2017

There’s something in the air this summer, I swear it. Everyone I speak to seems frustrated at the least or at the worst is caught in some unrelenting assault by the universe that’s crushing them as the pillars of happiness like home, work, and love crumble around them. I lean more toward the latter, and although work is fabulous and Fashion Unfiltered is everything, we all know fashion’s in a tricky position thanks to the changing times.

Nowhere this men’s Spring 2018 season were tricky times more evident than in New York, and you can read more about that here, but Theory, the final presentation on the NYFWM schedule was supposed to be special, all on the roof with cocktails and general fashion fun. Guess what? It rained (what did I say about the universe?). All of us, stood on the rooftop of Theory’s NY HQ, summer cocktails, all surrounded by beautiful boys in beautiful clothes and the heavens weeped.

The clothes were beautiful though—minimal, clean, quality…”theoretical,” you could say. This was new creative director Martin Andersson’s directorial debut, coming to Theory from that stroke of fast fashion genius by H&M, Cos. Given Cos’s openly Lang-inspired aesthetic, I would say Andersson is talent well tapped.

Flicking back through the look book, I’m at a bit of a loss. Not only were there considerably more models in looks up on that roof earlier, but it was also better merchandised. There was a gorgeous terracotta color story—six or so models wearing clean, fitted terracotta jeans or hoodies paired with a pink or grey shirt or an overcoat. Those six were whittled down by half in the look book. There were similar groupings of models arranged by color—blue, green, orange, and yellow, all anchored with a neutral, like khaki or grey, and the Meatpacking buildings surrounding the rooftop coordinated with each accordingly.

Well, regardless of the decision to slash strong looks from the final lookbook edit, the collection and Andersson seem to be a match made in Helmut Lang heaven. We’ll be watching this one.  

Thaddeus O’Neil

Spring 2018 Menswear

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