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Paris

Ann Demeulemeester

Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear

Paris

Ann Demeulemeester

Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear

Paris

BY William Buckley

September 28, 2017

At today’s Ann Demeulemeester show, Belgian band Warhaus performed, presumably songs from their 2016 debut album We Fucked A Flame Into Being, but since I’m unfamiliar with the collective’s oeuvre, I can’t be sure. It was wonderful though, mostly due to lead female singer Sylvie Kreusch’s epic gyrations in thigh-high boots. She looked like some possessed funk-pop sexed-up Belgian she-devil (that’s a thing). 

There is an Ann purist customer that has certainly decamped since she left, but designer Sébastien Meunier has reimagined the brand, and his technical skill is sumptuous. While the uber-fem inflections of his menswear might be a direction those purists weren’t expecting, the masculinity of his women’s collection is entirely of the moment.

While slouchy vests with low-cut pants, tailored suiting under overcoats, or moto jackets with combat boots give an edgy tomboy tint, Meunier’s marabou feathers, draped silks, and lace balance that, and the fusion offers the gothic aesthetic we expect. 

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