Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
September 12, 2017
For Spring, Coach’s Stuart Vevers looked to the sights and sounds of New York City, splashing his jet-black runway at Basketball City with flecks of glitter. His inspiration came from A Tribe Called Quest lyric: “A pretty little something on the New York street,” from the song “Electric Relaxation.” While the bustling sound of trains played overhead, Vevers’ pretty young things—Lexi Boling, Kaia Gerber, Stella Lucia, Marjan Jonkman, Winnie Harlow, and Paul Hameline, to name a few—stepped out in what could best be described as glamorous, gussied-up Westernwear.
Since being appointed as creative director, Vevers has long riffed on the idea of classic Americana, but this time around, he imbued his lineup with a kind of roadside glamour. Metallic varsity jackets and college sweaters with patches felt playful, while slinky slip dresses with lace trim and various washes of denim were fresh. Of course, this being Coach, there was a cornucopia of leather, from bags to pants to coats—all buttery and supremely delicious. Gemstone-colored satin was found on blazers and suits for men and women (Coach has adopted the coed show format), and lent the collection a new chicness.
Sequins were an ongoing detail, and brought a new dimension to the iconic Keith Haring prints featured throughout the collection (another way Vevers paid homage to the Big Apple—there were even Haring-print cabs driving around Manhattan today). As usual, there was a ‘70s ruggedness to the outing—the models’ hair was even teased a bit at the crown, as if they’d just woken up from a disco nap—but Vevers’ idea of America felt a bit more optimistic than, say, Raf Simons’, whose Spring collection for Calvin Klein was decidedly dark. It seems that, amidst all the turmoil, British-born Vevers still sees the sparkle in the U.S.A., and he thinks we should, too.