Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
September 7, 2017
“Tom Ford: Fucking Fabulous” read little black-and-white boxes sent to editors ahead of New York fashion week. Tom Ford was back—with a new F-bomb-titled fragrance, no less—returning to the NYFW (well, technically, pre-NYFW) runway after a stint in London, flirting with see-now, buy-now, and hosting an intimate presentation last season. And, like his new scent predicted, his Spring 2018 return was fucking fabulous.
What we were given at the Park Avenue Armory, which was swathed in pink velvet, was classic Tom—the sexed-up, no-fucks-given, super-luxe power clothes on which the Gucci and YSL alum built his career. Think shoulder pads piled two-high to sharpen the effect of wide-lapel suits and double-breasted blazers; plunging, barely-there bodysuits—paired with tough, rolled-cuff, low-slung trousers—that left just enough to the imagination; ruching and draping that sculpted the body; and fabrics with only the most sensual connotations—leather, silk satin, jersey, metal-mesh, and yes, sequins.
The show began with Binx Walton strutting to the late David Bowie’s “Fame” in a pale pink satin jacket, blush shorts, and a louche silver mesh top. Indeed, there was somewhat of a Bowie vibe to these clothes in their confidence, showmanship, and erotic ease—not that any of Bowie’s garments were easy, per se, but the way in which he wore them was.
About those sequins. This Tom Ford signature (the likes of Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen sat front row in Ford frocks dripping in the stuff) was used in a more restrained manner than in the past, appearing as mirror-like square paillettes on the arms of semi-sheer, draped mummy gowns worn by Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Binx, who closed the show with a dramatic pause-and-turn. That’s some old-school catwalking right there, and those gowns fused Ford’s sex appeal with old-school glamour—the kind we’ll no doubt see Hollywood fans like Julianne Moore flaunt on the red carpet.
The palette—soft, sometimes dusty pastels, metallics, and pops of bright, bold fuschias, oranges, and blues—was at once perverse and alluring. It juxtaposed soft and extreme in an innocence-lost-but-who-cares-because-I’m-fucking-fabulous kind of way.
Crystals brought an irreverent luxury to items that, at their core, could be considered everyday—panties (worn with a nothing but an oversized knit top and heels—fucking fabulous), hobo bags (a crystal hobo bag? Fucking fabulous), and a dress that was really just a shirt (but when you’re in Tom Ford and you’ve got legs like Binx, who really needs pants? Also, fucking fabulous.).
There was certainly something retro here—the palette, silhouettes, and even soundtrack were something of an ‘80s-‘90s mashup—but it all felt cool and clean and fresh. Not that we haven’t seen looks like these before from Ford, but their unapologetic, in-your-face nature seems just what the Tom Ford woman—and, for that matter, New York fashion week—need right now.
The sex-drenched mood extended to the after party, where there were shirtless male models serving cocktails and cheeseburgers. Tom Ford. Fucking fabulous.