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New York

Vaquera

Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear

New York

BY Hilary Shepherd

September 13, 2017

On the heels of a very cool collaboration with Hulu for The Handmaid’s Tale, there’s been a slow and steady buzz surrounding the Vaquera kids. In addition to high-profile editors and friends of the design quartet, Whoopi Goldberg sat front row.

Held in a hot, underground boxing gym (seats were scant, and some attendees even watched from the boxing ring), Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee, David Moses, and Claire Sully delivered their signature boundary-pushing weirdness, but with a flair of punk. The gender-fluid cast of models audibly stomped around the space, their glazed-over eyes and slumped posture recalling the group of dreadlocked teens I passed on my way over to the venue.

The Hollywood sign that spelled out “Vaquera” was a key symbol, and was printed on credit cards placed on each seat. (There was also a dress made entirely of credit cards.) The L.A. association was fairly humorous—Vaquera is perhaps the last brand one would associate with L.A., a place where superficiality reigns supreme. But taking common ideals and flipping them on their heads is what Vaquera does best.

The clothes came in all sorts of forms: tattered, ripped, deconstructed, safety-pinned. Surfer prints with hibiscus flowers found on board shorts and tops drove home the California theme, while denim corsets, unzipped jeans, and chain-link accessories felt strangely sexy. Menswear prints were mashed together, and cleverly placed rouching exemplified the designers’ technical talent. A standout was a trench coat that was held together with a massive, floral-printed bow. Pretty. 

The show notes read like an internal dialogue from someone struggling to express himself, both sartorially and otherwise. “I’m trying to think, About who I am, and what I want!!!!!” they read. “I’m supposed to be authentic, but it’s not clear what that means!!!!!!” In Vaquera’s world, you don’t have to figure it out. You can just be you. 

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Libertine

Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear

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