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New York


Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear

New York

BY Hilary Shepherd

September 13, 2017

On the heels of a very cool collaboration with Hulu for The Handmaid’s Tale, there’s been a slow and steady buzz surrounding the Vaquera kids. In addition to high-profile editors and friends of the design quartet, Whoopi Goldberg sat front row.

Held in a hot, underground boxing gym (seats were scant, and some attendees even watched from the boxing ring), Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee, David Moses, and Claire Sully delivered their signature boundary-pushing weirdness, but with a flair of punk. The gender-fluid cast of models audibly stomped around the space, their glazed-over eyes and slumped posture recalling the group of dreadlocked teens I passed on my way over to the venue.

The Hollywood sign that spelled out “Vaquera” was a key symbol, and was printed on credit cards placed on each seat. (There was also a dress made entirely of credit cards.) The L.A. association was fairly humorous—Vaquera is perhaps the last brand one would associate with L.A., a place where superficiality reigns supreme. But taking common ideals and flipping them on their heads is what Vaquera does best.

The clothes came in all sorts of forms: tattered, ripped, deconstructed, safety-pinned. Surfer prints with hibiscus flowers found on board shorts and tops drove home the California theme, while denim corsets, unzipped jeans, and chain-link accessories felt strangely sexy. Menswear prints were mashed together, and cleverly placed rouching exemplified the designers’ technical talent. A standout was a trench coat that was held together with a massive, floral-printed bow. Pretty. 

The show notes read like an internal dialogue from someone struggling to express himself, both sartorially and otherwise. “I’m trying to think, About who I am, and what I want!!!!!” they read. “I’m supposed to be authentic, but it’s not clear what that means!!!!!!” In Vaquera’s world, you don’t have to figure it out. You can just be you. 



Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear

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