Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
September 6, 2017
If there was ever a time that we needed an American dream, it’s now. And for Spring 2018, Zac Posen is offering us just that.
“We wanted this to be an optimistic collection,” Posen said during a showroom appointment. “It’s important right now—with everything going on in the world—to provide optimism for the customer at a designer price range, and also optimism for the consumer that’s [not buying designer clothing]. Part of our job as creators is to help people dream.”
This season, Posen was dreaming of retro Beverly Hills society, specifically how the city’s 1950s chic set reimagined 18th century European gardens. His mood board was covered with depictions of such landscapes—some coming from vintage postcards—as well as images of American icons, like Audrey Hepburn.
This dream world was, as Posen explained, seen through an “MTV filter,” which is best expressed via a series of short films the designer shot on his iPhone (which you can read about here).
The filtered concept is also apparent in the palette—a deep green Posen dubbed “midnight palm” was used for a series of satin looks, and elsewhere, dusty pinks, pale blues, soft lavenders, and muted mints evoked a certain nostalgia.
Posen masterfully combined easeful American sportswear with couture detailing and construction here, a prime example being a pair of crisp, creased, elongated white shorts he strutted out topped with a spectacularly embellished satin corset top with shoulders whose lines evoked the Chrysler Building. These two pieces could not have been more different, but they worked together beautifully, and seemed to embody his Spring theme.
In the same group were a handful of easy cotton pieces—blouses and dresses with embellished collars and puff-sleeves again married American ease with painstaking attention to detail.
But baby, we came to see the dresses and the gowns, and they did not disappoint.
These were fantasy all the way. Boned numbers hand-embellished with beaded forget me nots, a voluminous pink taffeta gown in cotton-candy pink that looked like so much fun to wear, a multi-dimensional floral-printed number, a fully embroidered cocktail frock, some sleek, black, beaded evening options, 3D sequins—you name it, Posen dreamt (and made) it.
And naturally, there were satin shoes, too, many of which boasted the 3D beaded flowers seen on his dresses and gowns.
It’s also worth noting—once again—how clever Posen is when it comes to the presentation of his collections. No show—skip that noise. As Posen explained, gowns are not made to race down a runway. The editors are happy, because there were super delicious macarons at the one-on-one appointments, and they get to be personally walked through by Posen, who is a pro at pointing out the not-to-be-missed details of his wares. The many fans he’s amassed thanks to his Project Runway fame will be happy, because he’s launching the films he shot, starring bombshell girl-next-door Kate Upton, on Instagram. And his clients are going to be super happy, because right after he attends the NYFW premier of his documentary, House of Z, he’s taking his collection on the road to Neiman Marcus in Dallas, where he’ll present the collection directly to those who buy it at a 500-guest event for children’s charity The Crystal Ball.
“The focus is about the client,” said Posen. “It’s always about the client.” Well, that, and some seriously luxurious clothes.
Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear