The fashion calendar continues to be poked and prodded, shaken and stirred. And in today’s case, it came in the form of another “Great Show Shake-Up,” as the Times‘ Vanessa Friedman put it. (Hey, it was only a matter of time before a catchy sobriquet was adopted into our industry lexicon.) WWD reported today that Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of New York-based label Public School will shift their runway shows to align with the pre-collection calendar, taking effect this June, a month before men’s fashion week begins.
Additionally, the designers, who, as of Spring 2016, also helm DKNY, plan to go coed—that is, merge their women’s and men’s collections and showcase them twice a year, in December and June, instead of the traditional quarterly schedule. But unlike Gucci, who announced last week that it, too, would be adopting a mixed-gender, twice-yearly runway format—ditto for Tom Ford, Vetements, Burberry, and Tommy Hilfiger—Public School will aptly title their two shows Collection 1 (Pre-Spring and Spring) and Collection 2 (Pre-Fall and Fall).
“Showing twice a year with both men’s and women’s in one show will allow us to really develop our ideas cohesively throughout the year and subsequently slow the entire process down,” Chow told WWD. “We can actually enjoy our collections as opposed to being tied to the calendar.”
Osborne added that their women’s collection had essentially always been an extension of the men’s. “It was a collection that our female friends could enjoy without altering the men’s pieces to wear,” he said. “We feel the similar design approach made more of an impact when we showed men’s and women’s at the same time.”
No word yet on whether Osborne and Chow will give DKNY the same consumer-facing treatment, but if the label’s recent evolution is any indication, it might not be long until we add it to the list of rabble-rousing brands shaking up the traditional mold. Stay tuned.