Jessie Randall, on the other hand, continues to put out a healthy accessories brand. She just won Brand of the Year at this year’s ACE Awards, focusing on shoes and bags, but stopped producing clothing after a couple of seasons. And her clothes were great—this reporter still sports a black cape from 2007. But production and technique on leather goods and clothing are two different beasts to tame. And smaller brands don’t always have the bandwidth.
The Mansur Gavriel aesthetic has always been simple and pared down, so naturally, the clothes followed suit. The show focused on outerwear, specifically a topper-style coat made from wool and camelhair done in five different variations. Perhaps the proposition is this as a new accessory? For urban walking cities like New York, outerwear is a statement. They also showed various colors of an oversized turtleneck in cable knit and boxy dresses, which were worn over pants. A pair of giant puffer coats in pink and terracotta took a turn on the runway too.
The overall message wasn’t quite as exciting as those first, smash-hit bags. (And believe me when I tell you how excited this reporter was to be attending their collection presentation.) The variations of color of similar pieces made for heavy repetition, which resulted in a lack of enthusiasm for what came next. But as this is the brand’s first go at RTW, they get a pass. Everyone deserves some time to get their fashion sea legs, and given how smart these women have been with their accessories range, they’ve a better chance than most at figuring it out.