Major changes are afoot in the luxury market, as one of the biggest online retailers in the world—Yoox Net-A-Porter Group—has announced it will no longer carry fur.
British Vogue reports that YNAP (which includes Yoox, Net-A-Porter, the menswear site Mr. Porter, and The Outnet, which carries last-call, out of season items at a discount), has banned the textile across its platforms.
“We have a strong sense of responsibility and recognize the importance of making a positive contribution to society,” Matteo James Moroni, YNAP’s head of sustainability, told the outlet. “With a range of initiatives, partnerships and innovations, our goal is to act as an industry-wide catalyst for change.”
The ban already seems to be rolling out slowly, with a quick search of the sites still yielding a handful of results (mostly in trims on shoes and coats). However, brands that are affiliated with fur—such as the outerwear company Canada Goose, which produces fur-lined hoods on its jackets, or Fendi—are still available, and it is unclear as to how this will effect their business practices. Canada Goose, for example, can likely stand to loose the e-tailers cutting their fur pieces, as it is only one small part of its offering. But for Fendi, a brand built on fur and includes it in even the smallest of accessories (think of how successful the Karlito charms were two years ago), one has to wonder if its collections will be able to stand the loss. Of course, neither assessment takes into account that YNAP is only one online avenue of sales (no matter how large), and that brands are still selling fur on other luxury platforms, as well as their own websites and stores.
That being said, YNAP is one of the largest online retailers around. Net-A-Porter, specifically, changed the way luxury was sold online. If they are successful in this ban, other sites with a conscious might follow suit. And as consumers increasingly become interested in sustainable, ethical options, this ban marks a turning point in the shift of what is considered “luxury.”