Stephen Jones Millinery
Analogue met digital in this SS21 preview by Stephen Jones. Titled Analogue Fairydust, the collection featured creations inspired by planet Earth, modelled by digital character Noonoouri in an animated video. The global pandemic has led Stephen Jones to reflect on and analyse our world. A mathematical silhouette and the values of togetherness and unity associated with it were mirrored in geometrical, dynamic forms of lightweight yet opulent headpieces.
Blue plays a central role in the collection. Representing the water of the world, blue symbolises strength, trust and peace. Dashes of shimmer perfectly contrast the rich, earthy tones found on a dusk-coloured wave crown or Fantasia mask dusted with stars. The digitalised headpieces originate from miniature versions handmade by Jones using scraps of fabrics and Post-it notes held together by pins. Working his analogue magic, he granted insight into new creative processes propelled by the belief in a better future.
Irish menswear designer Robyn Lynch created a one-off capsule collection that combined her youthful, sharp aesthetic with a sporty twist. In collaboration with Rapha, the London-based cycling specialist, she created twelve pieces using surplus materials from both her previous collections and the cycling clothing brand.
In a home movie, Lynch documented the making of her collection, giving insights on her moodboard, design process and fittings. The time in her home studio resulted in hybrid pieces such as zip-knit technical sweaters or slit technical shorts which fused her signature cable knit with Lycra and jersey. Added panels created a roomier silhouette while a deep blue and bright orange was contrasted with soft beige and crisp white. Simultaneously emphasising sustainability and highlighting the realities of fashion design during COVID-19, Robyn Lynch’s capsule collection was a true child of lockdown.
“Made from home, several homes”. Affected by lockdown, Tíscar Espadas relied on collaboration and trust for her project ‘CAPÍTULO II, first act,’ made in London, Barcelona, Madrid, Úbeda and Pedreguer. Traditional music and matador-like dance movements set the scene for the designer’s film, deeply infused by Tíscar’s Spanish roots. It’s a timeless collection of high-waisted wide trousers, baggy shorts and puff-sleeve collarless shirts, reminiscent of 18th-century Spanish navy uniforms. In a colour palette of black, white and beige, the looks are adorned with her signature hats, the mixture of a bullfighter’s montera and a Napoleonic bicorne.
JordanLuca has a message to the fashion world: real people’s voices are the ones that will make the revolution happen. Known for their flair at merging the volcanic creativity of London with immaculate Italian tailoring, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto, the duo behind the brand, wanted to reconsider the multiple personal narratives for their SS21 capsule collection launch.
The short film was a collaboration with director Daniel Sannwald and creative directors Charlie le Mindu and Betsy Johnson, who sought to evolve a new aesthetic vocabulary for the brand. As they put it, “neurotic research and meticulous design” merge in the film that looks beyond fashion and creates a platform for collective narratives through local and global communities and sustainable thinking.
UK brand LYPH’s SS21 collection was presented by creative director Frederick Edmondson. LYPH’s main idea is to let the customer become a designer. Every garment has a module pockets system. You can put the pockets on and take them off, add colours, change the functionality of the garment, play with it. This also creates an opportunity for upcycling of the pieces and accessories. This unique concept might get a new meaning post lockdown. One pocket for a sanitiser, one for a mask, or whatever else you might need moving around and not looking too serious. As Edmondson said in the video; “The most important thing to remember is that we have to have fun with everything that’s why we live young and play hard.”
In a short retro-futuristic film recorded with a spherical selfie view, Li Gong presented 8ON8’s ‘Crown of Ruins’ sustainable headdress collection. Inspired by an expedition in 2126 to gather the relics of the 21st Century, it featured leftover fabrics from previous collections and second-hand clothing upcycled into nine hand-sewn hats. This design process made each one of them a unique piece. Aimed to show “an exquisite craftsmanship in a luxury point of view,” the hats combine elements from cricket caps with Victorian costume details such as classic webbing and sparkling acrylic stones.
Daniel w. Fletcher
Daniel Fletcher presented 12 looks for his Autumn/Winter 2020 collection, titled Start Me Up. Working from home at a different pace made the designer create a cheerful genderless collection, without waste and with a see-now-buy-now approach. Fletcher used recycled materials and two items from his work in Next in Fashion to present a result full of British heritage. From striped silk shirts to hand-painted jackets, the designer dedicated this collection to his seamstresses, who worked from home during the lockdown. With 10% of the collection’s proceeds donated to charities fighting against the consequences of Covid-19 and racial inequalities, Fletcher’s preppy pieces have a whole new purpose.