Band of Outsiders
Designer Scott Sternberg was inspired by nostalgia. A bright palette of canary yellow, fire engine red and sky blue ran through relaxed trousers paired with bomber jackets and illustrated t-shirts — a trip down memory lane. Models surrounded a bright red 70s’ camper van. The brand’s signature laid-back and effortless style, combined with contributions from artist Egle Zviblyte and outerwear brand Lu Mei, enhanced the sense of community and bonding.
Held at Martine’s daughter’s primary school in Kentish Town, this AW20 collection was an impressive ode to London and community. An expert in the subtleties of subversion and self-reference, the designer drew from Mod-casual culture (including a collaboration with Farah) and her life in London. Models, streetcast locally, walked in oversized sta-press trousers, half-zip sweaters emblazoned with “Martine Rose, Expect Perfection” and an array of colourful bottle-top badges. She also sent out shirts, blazers and skirts that delivered a shout-out to the London neighbourhoods with which the designer has a connection – Clapham Junction, Tooting, Tottenham, Hackney Road.
An Iranian wedding ceremony was part of the show, referencing the designer’s roots. Utility, practicality, and sustainability ruled in all 20 looks, as models in earthy-toned cargo pants and windbreakers stepped off-stage into the wedding party. Hoods and Farzaneh’s signature Iranian prints were stand-outs. The Latin emblem adorning the frame of Central Foundation Boys School’s auditorium stage read Spe, labore, fide – hope, effort, faith.
Glam Epoch was the title of this brilliantly talented Woolmark Prize winner’s latest collection, drawing on influences from across the globe, presenting a showcase of international collaboration, culture and luxe. Suiting was expertly tailored, but relaxed, in clashing checks; bright, shiny silks featured the work of artist Erik Jones. Scottish thistles appeared on voluminous maxi-coats, alongside plush Cruella De Vil furs and oversized denim jackets. Everywhere, rhinestone Japanese chrysanthemums danced in the light, appliquèd on sleeves, lapels, pockets. And we loved the fezes by Stephen Jones.