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London Fashion Week AW20

London Fashion Week opened the European show season for A/W 2020. Fashion Unfiltered skipped Burberry and the bigger names to find out which young designers are showing potential.

Katie Ann McGuigan AW20

The fashion set descended on London last week, fighting through storms and tube chaos to catch the latest offerings for AW20. From the environment to politics, designers’ statements went way beyond conventional fashion trends. Here are some of our favourites.

Day 1: Richard Malone

Richard Malone is designing us into the future. His latest collection is an expert play on sex and gender, also highlighting his devotion to sustainability and transparency (including merino wool that can be traced back to a single sheep). We loved it.

Westminster University BA Fashion

Westminster BA students revealed final collections inspired by everything from Power Puff Girls to climate change. Highlights included: voluminous, structural puffer jackets; opulent baroque headpieces; balloon-clad boots; twins in matching capes; and red latex looks that mix nuns with The Handmaid’s Tale.

Temperley London

Temperley London celebrated 20 years with a spectacular evening of fun at the flagship store in Bruton Street, festooned for the occasion in pretty pink flowers. For this season, Temperley visualised the woman as a dancer with a retro touch in sparkling dresses with rhinestones and floral embroideries. 

Richard Malone AW20

Day 2: Isabel Manns 

With hues ranging from deep emerald green to claret, Isabel Manns presented a collection true to her vision of femininity. Everything is made in Britain and Manns has consistently worked with sustainably conscious partners since the launch of her label in 2018. The clothes are all reversible, with both plain and printed sides – chiming with the designer’s belief in slow-moving fashion: she wants to make clothes that last a lifetime.

Mimi Wade

In partnership with Warner Bros, to celebrate the release of Harley Quinn: Birds of Prey, Mimi Wade looked to the anti-heroine for inspiration and sent her birds of prey storming down the runway. Classic Mimi Wade Americana featured in a cheerleading uniform with pom-pom handbags and bald eagle prints. Vintage band t-shirts were repurposed into a patchwork dress, and bumsters made a return. This is the Mimi Wade heroine; unshackled, powerful and erotic. 

Marques’Almeida

Marques’Almeida portrayed a generation covered in big goat furs, structured peplum sleeves and oversized raver jeans. M’A girls and boys just want to take up as much space as possible, desiring to be seen and heard in their glittery makeup and platform shoes.

DB Berdan 

DB Berdan’s ‘Scan to Escape’ was a light-hearted take on a virtual post-apocalyptic world. By combining sustainable materials such as recycled polyester and reclaimed cotton, the London-based genderfluid brand created a collection with a whiff of retro and a big dose of urban in asymmetric, innovative cuts. The QR codes that appeared in the garments and invites linked the reality to the digital world.

Temperley London AW20

Day 3: Katie Ann McGuigan

Inviting us into her little living room, Katie Ann McGuigan delivered a muted, yet print-heavy collection inspired by the street photography of Tom Wood. With a focus on elevating signature styles such as her biker jackets and organza dresses, McGuigan is successfully crafting a versatile wardrobe for the contemporary woman. 

Y PLUS

Y PLUS presented a monochromatic collection with red highlights for the streetwear warrior. The oversized camouflage-printed pieces are characterteristic of this brand’s style.

Johan Ku 

Johan Ku’s affinity for sculptural structures for knitwear shaped his design identity this season. The monochrome collection presented a kind of knitted armour for the winter season.

Simon Mo

The BA Central Saint Martins’ graduate – who launched his eponymous brand in 2016 – offered up a collection inspired by Mo’s fascination with wild animals and their domestication. Mo’s designs reminded us of something you might find in the attic, but maybe that’s a good place to lookJo.

 

Johan Ku AW20

Day 4: Johnston’s of Elgin

Set in the rotunda of the Serpentine Gallery in Kensington Gardens, Johnston’s of Elgin’s collection featured models standing on a rotating platform wearing cosy cashmere creations in subtle earthy tones with splashes of yellow, orange and turquoise. The houndstooth was our favourite. 

Ashish

Sequins have always been the love language of Ashish. Some seasons he uses it to celebrate his roots, and sometimes to look to the future. In contrast to his spring collection, which referenced traditional Indian mirror work, his vibrant fall collection celebrated the legacy of patterns in 80s’ silhouettes with polka dots, houndstooth, animal prints, and gingham. Bold floral graphics were scattered across pants and maxi dresses. 

Day 5: Mark Fast

A vibrant journey back in time to London’s Swinging Sixties mixed with modern-day references. Womenswear hit the nail on the head with short hemlines and 60s’ hair and accessories, while menswear was more focused on contemporary street style with both fabrics and cuts. 

Bobby Abley

Bobby Abley recruited the Minions as collaborators this season. They asserted a delightful presence as camouflage, leopard and lava lamp prints. At the show’s end, their runway lap reflected a manifesto: We are legion. And now, we are fashion

 

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